Batanes Travel Guide

This guide covers only Batan Island and Sabtang Island as I have yet to visit Itbayat Island, the third and least accessible inhabited island in the Batanes Group of Islands.

The Batanes Group of Islands

What to Know

Physical Location
The Batanes Group of Islands is made up of 10 islands scattered throughout the Luzon strait. It is at the northernmost tip of the Philippine archipelago and is actually nearer to Taiwan than to mainland Luzon. 

Orientation
Batanes is the smallest province in the Philippines in terms of land area and population. Among its 10 islands, only 3 are inhabited, namely Batan, Sabtang, and Itbayat.

Batan has 4 municipalities namely Basco, Mahatao, Ivana, and Uyugan. Basco, the capital, serves as the gateway to the rest of the region. Its town center is lined with numerous grocery stores, talipapa's (temporary wet markets), bicycles/motorcycles, and ukay-ukay's (thrift shops) in no predictable order. Most of the roads look the same and the locals rely on the number of intersections instead of on street names when giving directions (i.e. turn left at the 5th intersection vs. turn left at Amboy St.) Abad St. is the main road traversing the whole length of the town and could be used as an anchor point when navigating.

Sabtang and Itbayat are both island-municipalities. Sabtang has 6 barangays namely Sinakan, Savidug, Chavayan, and the less-visited Sumnaga, Nakanmuan, and Malakdang. The island gives a better preview of traditional Ivatan living with its preserved stone houses and villages.

The people of Batanes are mostly of Ivatan ethnicity. There are, however, migrants, especially from the Cagayan and Ilocos, who have learned to speak the local language and have identified themselves as Ivatan too.

Communication
Cellphone signals for Smart and Globe are available in all municipalities except in barangays Itbud and Imnajbu in Batan and Nakanmuan, Sumnaga, and Chavayan in Sabtang. Wifi is available in some hotels and homestays although no more new internet applications are allowed for technical limitations. Thus, new establishments may most likely not be able to provide internet.

Transportation
The main mode of transportation in the region is by bicycle or motorcycle. Four-wheeled vehicles, except for tour vans, are uncommon which is just because of the narrow roads and high fuel prices. Public transport is rare since most of the locals have their own two-wheels. However, there is still the BATODA (Basco Tricyle Operators and Drivers' Association) and the MATODA (Mahatao Tricyle Operators and Drivers' Association) when necessary. But unlike in other regions, they don't roam the roads in search of passengers but park themselves at the terminal and wait for a text or call.

Weather
Because Batanes is basically out at the open sea, weather conditions can be unpredictable -- a sunny day today does not mean there won't be a storm tomorrow. Strong winds and rainshowers, however, should always be expected.

Electricity
When winds get too strong, power disruptions may occur. At other nights, the power station stages a rotating brown-out in order to accommodate the whole island. But disregarding this, most of the streets are lighted, albeit dimly. Nevertheless, a flashlight would be handy and more comfortable.

Accommodation
Most accommodation options are homestays although hotels are also in business. Traditionally, homestays are rooms of local homes that have been made available for guests. These options are thus more homey, basic and inexpensive. The homeowers themselves cater to the needs of the guests which may or may not be an advantage. In Batanes though, almost everyone in the tourism business were required to attend a hospitality seminar.

Security
Crime rate in the region is basically zero. No one touches things they don't own and there have been stories of wallets and possessions being lost and found exactly where they were left.


Where to Go

Batan Island
Batan Island is the largest among the islands and is best enjoyed in two days. It is usually divided into North Batan and South Batan, although North Batan really just covers Basco.

Naidi Hills
The Naidi Hills is a mere 15 mins away from Basco town. Here, you will find the Basco Lighthouse and the Bunker's Cafe, as well as a number of grazing cows and "cow compost". In the morning, climb up the lighthouse for a view of Basco town, its rolling hills, and of towering Mt. Iraya and then come back by 6pm just in time to marvel at the sunset and to eat at Bunker's Cafe. The Cafe opens from 6pm onwards since the owner works until 5pm at the local health center(?) and attends to her cafe only after.

Bunker's Cafe at Naidi Hills

Valugan Boulder Beach
While waiting for the sunset, kill time at Valugan Boulder Beach which is east of Basco town. Aptly named, the whole length of the shore is made up of varying sizes of boulders. Have fun skipping across the boulders, attempting rock balancing, or challenging the waves.

Valugan Boulder Beach

Racuh a Payaman aka Marlboro Country
This might be what most people are excited about Batanes for -- the New Zealand-esque landscape with its rolling hills and grazing cattle that make you forget you're still in the Philippines. Getting to the site is mostly uphill and could be a thrilling (or nauseous) ride.

During our visit, there was a looming storm and the wind was blowing like crazy. It blew from all directions, mixing with rain, and threatened to blow us and our cameras away. With the sun peaking from behind dark clouds, making a divide between light and dark, the experience could even be considered spiritual by some. It was literally mind-blowing.

Facing a looming storm at Marlboro Country

Alapad Hill
Referring more to a rock formation than to a hill, Alapad Hill itself doesn't really offer much to a non-rock-enthusiast. With its sharp curves, rigid lines, whitish stone, and concealed caves, the rock is indeed pretty. But what lies behind that large formation is what's really marvelous. It stands at a corner with a 270-degree view of two varying shores, one with rock-smashing towering waves and the other with gentler come-hither waters.

As with our "Marlboro Country" experience, our Alapad Hill experience was also extreme. We were blown away by the same raging wind except that we were on a cliff and riding on a bike.

Other Batan destinations include:

• Diura Fishing Village
• Itbud Village
• Songsong Ruins
• Chana'tuan Fields in Uyugan
• The house of Dakay and the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana
• Mahatao Boat Shelter
• Chawa View Deck halfway going to Mahatao
• Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel near the PAGASA Radar Station

Sabtang Island

Because public transportation is basically inexistent in this island, visits would be part of a chartered tricycle tour. This would normally include only half of the island because of the fixed boat schedule; although the full-island tour would still be doable but with minimal "awe" time.

To get to Sabtang, you can either charter a van, a tricycle, or a motorcycle (rare) to San Vicente Port in Ivana. If not, you can catch the single-trip 6am jeep for a cheap P27 fare. Ask at Amboy's along Amboy St. to confirm jeep schedule and jeep route although waiting at Abad St. would be a good bet. The jeep would most likely stop at San Vicente Port to drop off goods to be ferried to Sabtang Island. If there is time to kill before the boat departs, take advantage of the public restroom just in front of San Vicente Church or, even better, walk to Honesty Coffee Shop just beside the port. Take note that boat trips to Sabtang are few and scheduled. The first boat leaves at 7am from Ivana and returns by 2pm from Sinakan. Be sure to catch these times.

Popular destinations at Sabtang include the ones listed below. These are the towns nearest Sinakan where the port is, although the tour can also be modified to include the farther towns on request (there is supposedly a "seahorse" rock formation in Malakdang). This is more recommended for an overnight trip though so as not to sacrifice "awe" time.

• Savidug Vernacular Houses
• Chavayan Traditional Ivatan Village
• Sabtang Weaver's Association
• Nakabuang Beach

A row of Vernacular Houses in Savidug

Entrance to Chavayan Traditional Ivatan Village

Lady from the Sabtang Weaver's Association

Creamy sand at Nakabuang Beach

What to Do

Do like the locals and pedal your way around town

As already mentioned, bikes and motorbikes are the most popular methods of transportation. But since renting a motorbike is more expensive and (ideally) requires a license, why not sweat it out on a bike instead? This was what we did and although pushing your bike up steep hills was lame, the ride down was definitely exhilirating, especially if you're riding cliff-side. Plus, this mode allowed more freedom and contact with the surroundings than sitting in an AC van.

Go to Amboy's along Amboy St. for a wide selection of bikes or to Crisan's along Dita St. for newer bikes. (~P250/day)

Watch the sun set from Naidi Hills while munching

The hills directly face west offering a sunset view framed by hills, cattle and open water. Be there by 6pm the latest and witness the sun slowly disappear on the horizon as it emits varying shades of orange until darkness overtakes. Bring snacks and picnic while watching the show but don't forget to be wary of jealous/excited cows that "sing" a capella to the spectacle.

Pick a hill and run your heart out

Tired of running along paved roads and tiled floors? Do it through grasslands for a change. I promise, you'll love the difference.

What to Eat
Finding a place to dine out at is a bit challenging. Restaurants are few and scattered while canteens are difficult to spot. Some budget options include the following:

Chili's
Abad St. cor Cantor St.
Chili's is a small corner canteen which supposedly serves "chilified" meals. There's a tiny talipapa outside almost camouflages the canteen But look for the Chili's signage and don't be afraid to peek inside that screen door to inquire what is being served.

SDC Canteen
National Rd., in front of Basco Municipal Hall, behind St. Dominic College
Asking a local for a canteen nearby, they would always point you to SDC Canteen which is actually a bit outside the town center. It is a real canteen though -- spacious, equipped with a TV, and manned by cafeteria ladies.

Dietician's Cafe
National Rd., near the Rural Health Unit
Owned by a dietician, this tiny cafe sits around 6 people, serves dietician-approved meals, and keeps utensils and plates sanitized. They open early, around 8am, and their food offerings vary throughout the day.

Hiro's Cafe
Abad St. cor. Abuyo St.
Their original store was closed out because of the recent typhoon damage and they were using a mixed-use home-office as base. Although they didn't have signage for the canteen, they still accommodate food orders on request, albeit only for take-out. They serve inexpensive and great Ivatan food.

6 to 8 Panciteria
National Rd., near Ivatan Lodge
Serving more than just pancit, 6 to 8 is likely only open from 6am to 8pm. Order a heaping size of Pancit Batil Patong for a quick merienda fix.

Aside from lobster, Ivatans no longer consume traditional food fare on a normal basis. Most places, canteens especially, offer the usual Filipino selections. For Ivatan delicacies, head over to Ivatan Pension House and be ready to splurge on Coconut Crabs, Uvud Balls, Lobster, Uve Chips, and Lumpiang Dibang.

Note: Coconut crabs are illegal to eat outside of Batanes because of their decreasing population. They are said to taste just like the normal crabs except for a slight hint of coconut due to their diet. I personally don't think that the slight hint of difference in taste -- which you may not even notice -- is worth further endangering an endangered specie. Plus, they look freaky and hairy.

The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).