Saturday, December 21, 2013

The Dark Side of Kalanggaman Island

Day3: Kalanggaman Island, Palompon, Leyte

Date of Travel: 25 October, 2013


Not a lot of people know about the island of Kalanggaman (or Calanggaman) in Palompon, Leyte. Still less know about its dark side. So I'm going to write about it here, not to discourage travellers from visiting the surreal island but to inform and to prepare those who dare.

Our trip to Kalanggaman Island was a result of a string of somewhat positive incidents. Had we been able to fly out from Tacloban City instead of having to travel back to Cebu City for our return flight to Manila*, we would have been forced to forego the Kalanggaman plan completely. And had our boatmates not turn out to be a group of 15-less-two, we would have been forced to go way beyond or budget. But events sometimes favor you and sometimes it unintentionally makes way for what you desperately want. And so, two mornings after scowling and crying my face out, we were 30 minutes away from Kalanggaman Island with a group of 13 younger teenagers who reminded me of how simple life previously was.
Approaching Kalanggaman Island
The plan was to spend the night at the island with a borrowed tent and cold preserved food. We were expecting to sleep peacefully under the stars at the twin-sandbar Island and to wake up refreshed to a glorious sunrise. We were woefully wrong.

Save for a small team of caretakers, a couple of police officers and occasional fishermen, who all regularly head home to the mainland, Kalanggaman Island had no permanent residents. As such, structures were mostly temporary and camping was the main and most appropriate form of overnight accommodation**. (I strongly believe that this is the way it should be because hotel-style accommodations would only destroy the island charm.) No problem there. And although I personally have difficulty sleeping on hard beds, this turned out to be the very least of my worries.

Darkness #1: Dark Shadows

The first signs came just before dusk as we were exploring the south side of the island. We were following a trail surrounded by wild grass when I heard something move among the grass. I instinctively turned and thought I caught a dark small figure. After a few steps, I heard something again, turned, and saw the same black thing flash by. I was getting anxious by the moment but thought we’ve already gone a long way to turn back. However, a few steps more and I quickly changed my mind. The black thing I thought I was just imagining totally darted in front of us. I immediately turned around and headed straight back to camp.

Back at our camp, I definitely felt safer. There was no concealing grass around us, just sand and evenly spaced palm trees. This helped me believe the dark figures won’t have any interest following us. But again, I was so wrong.
Area surrounding our camp
As we finished dinner and as the island slowly turned into pitch black, I started hearing noises again. This time, I sensed it was something moving in the sand. I feared it might be the same dark figures in the grass earlier but I felt I need to find out for sure now. I could see the shadows moving around, encircling our camp and knew none of those are going to be good news. I beamed my flashlight at one of the moving shadows and saw it. Big as a cat, round as a piglet, and black as night. It was a legitimate wild rat. And it looked well-fed.

With my flashlight, I attempted to shoo them away but although they did dodge the direct light, they seemed undaunted and determined. There were around 10 of them watching us, darting from one spot to another but still maintaining proximity. They could smell our food and they want it bad.

We kept our food inside layers of tightly-knotted plastic and put it inside our tent while we kept our trash inside trash bags and put it on top of several stacks of chairs. I was hoping these were enough to discourage the rats, even spraying alcohol around to hide the smell, but I guess they have already marked their target and knew exactly where to get it.

Not long after I zipped up our tent and put away our light source did the ripping and crunching of plastic begin. They have effortlessly climbed the stack of chairs and are then tearing the trash bag open. After a few minutes, it stopped and after a few more, I heard squeaks just outside our tent. They were then after the food inside our tent which was only a few inches from me! I could sense them moving around and I was really afraid they would find a way in so I tried rearranging our stuff, keeping the tent as secure as possible and the plastic of food as concealed as possible.

Darkness #2: Dark Rain

I didn’t know how long I kept awake, listening for any kind of movement and speculating on what might be happening, but I must have managed to fall asleep and  I awoke in the middle of the night to the sound of heavy rain. I laid there for a second processing what was happening when I realized that water was dripping through the hole at the center of the tent.

A mini-storm happened to pass through our little island and our old and battered tent offers little protection. It was leaking everywhere. It also doesn’t help that we were in the middle of the ocean, with the wind freely blowing around and with no strong source of light.

When I got out of the damp tent, I surveyed the area to find both the trash bag and the lurking rats gone, which was somewhat fortunate because I had a new concern to focus on. After a sleepy struggle, we have managed to pack up our food, clothes, and valuables and were then headed to the caretaker’s hut to seek shelter. We were wet, cold, sleepless, and shelter-less and thankfully the sleeping caretakers didn’t object to us barging in to their base.

It was a few hours after midnight but with the uncomfortable bed, my damp clothes, my exposed limbs, and the imminent threat of rats coming too close (I could hear them squeak, I could hear them scamper nearby, and our plastic of food was vulnerable on a table nearby), I was considering to keep vigilant until sunrise. But the need for sleep came out stronger and after managing a comfortable enough position, I let myself fall asleep.

The Morning After

As soon as the first ray of sunshine hit the island, I woke up and checked if everything was in order. Although I could still hear the hurried footsteps of the rats, nothing seemed touched or damaged. I gathered our stuff and went back to camp to assess last night's damage. Small shreds of the trash bag as well as its former contents were scattered all over but most of it was totally missing. Most of our stuff, clothes and gadgets, were damp but nevertheless would be in good condition after some drying. Our tent was still standing but it was a big mess and I just realized that it had a lot of holes that the rats could have squeezed into.

Lacking sleep and exhausted, I felt like a survivor. I felt proud I did not freak out over the unusually aggressive rats and the unforeseen midnight rain. 
A Peaceful Breakfast
With the sun finally up and the rats back in their dens, the island transformed back into a dreamlike paradise. The white sand glistened, the waves beckoned, the palm trees offered comfort and even though our clothes were laid out under the sun to dry, the previous night seemed no more than a bad dream. Darkness was an unimaginable thought amidst that magnificent scenery. But in case some form of darkness did exist, I am certain it was a very small price to pay.


Footnotes:

* All these took place a week after a Magnitude 10 earthquake hit Bohol where our returning flight to Manila was originally set. Because of the fortuitous event, Zest Air allowed Tagbilaran City departures to be transferred to Cebu City instead, free of charge. We thought we could opt for Tacloban City and only confirmed upon arriving at the city that Cebu City was the only offered option.

** There were concrete houses installed with solar panels at the south side of the island but these seemed to completely unused and were not offered publicly.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Visayas Traverse: Sugar Beach, Sipalay

Day3: Sugar Beach, Sipalay

Date of Travel: 15 October 2013

People using woodeng planks and boulders to get to the boat
From Guimaras, we headed straight to Negros Occidental via the Cabano-Bago route. When the boat arrived, the water was low and the existing docking bridge wasn't usable. The boatmen tried to improvise by laying down wooden planks across boulders and by using themselves as human hand rails so that the passengers won't get wet. It was getting late so the people ended up crossing the water to the boat without a proper system yet. And even thought the task was quite challenging -- waves rolling under your feet, no proper footing for balance, hand-carried luggage -- I didn't see anyone fall into the water. Some didn't even get their feet wet.
A view of endless rice paddies on the way
Going to Sugar Beach, we took the Montilla route and rode a tricycle from the high way to the small river. The road went through rice paddies backed up by small mountains and over a river lined with Mangroves. It was a refreshing scenery.
Sugar beach's western orientation makes for perfect sunsets
Sugar beach directly faces West giving it unobstructed views of the sunset every day. I think this is the best sunset I've seen so far. Head to http://halfwhiteboy.blogspot.com/2012/04/sunsets-at-sugar-beach.html for better pictures.

Where We Stayed

Driftwood Village Resort

This was a long walk from the small river on the other side. I think this was the 5th resort you'll pass by and if you're really tired and hungry from a long trip (like us), you might regret making a reservation here. In which case, make a reservation in the pricier Takatuka Lodge instead, the first resort along the beach.

Anyway, true to its name, the place really looks like a village. Several nipa huts are strategically positioned throughout the property and serve different purposes. There are nipa huts for dining, for entertainment, for accommodations, for the bathroom, for the receiving area, etc. It felt like walking around in a traditional Filipino village.

What I like most about this resort are their hammocks. They have one outside every room and a few more on the beach. Their beach hammocks are not the net-type ones and so don't leave criss-cross marks on you after a good nap. We took a nap in one under the stars and the moon.

Room: P450
Inclusions: Fan room, shared bath, hammock
Tip: Bring an off! lotion to protect from the mosquitoes

How We Did It

Guimaras Island to Negros Occidental:

There are two ways to get from Guimaras to Negros. The first one, the more popular one, is via Iloilo wherein you ride the short boat-ride back to Iloilo city from Jordan and then get on a bigger boat to Bacolod City. To me, this takes more time, effort and money and so we went for the less popular one wherein we went to the other side of the island, Cabano, and got on a 45-min boat ride to Bago City (a few kilometers south of Bacolod City). Aside from this route being non-touristy, it also allowed us to see more of the island.

From the town center of Jordan, there is a shuttle van that goes to Cabano. However, waiting time and travel time is longer because they have to fill the van. Fortunately, we were able to deal with a tricycle driver to take us to Cabano for P200 (this would normally be P300-P400).

At Bago City, follow the crowd and get on one of the tricycles headed for the highway. If you're heading back to Bacolod City, cross the road. Otherwise, stay on your side of the road.

Tricycle to Cabano (1hr): P200/trip
Boat to Bago (45min): P60/person
*earliest trip at 10:00
Tricycle to Highway(20min): P20/person

Bago City to Sugar Beach:

From Bago City, wait for a Hinoba-an bus along the national highway. Tell the driver that you're getting off at Montilla, around 3kms before you arrive at Sipalay town proper. Prepare for a long and uncomfortable bus ride as a lot of people are usually headed to Sipalay.

At Montilla, get on a tricycle that will take you to the river near Sugar Beach in Bgy. Nauhang. Just tell them that you're headed to sugar beach. Our tricycle driver then was Sonny SMART 09214966158. He speaks good Tagalog and knows the area well. He was also honest enough to give me back my P100 when I was giving him P200.

At the river, get on a small paddle boat that will take you across. It is really just a small river but it's too deep to wade through or even swim through.

After the river, you will find yourself in a small village. Walk to your right and take the rightmost fork into the forest. You're basically going around a big boulder and you can exit to the beach through the leftmost fork.

Bus to Montilla (4.5hrs): P157/person
Tricycle to river (30mins): P100/trip
Boat to get across (5mins): P10-20/person

Bago City to Sugar Beach via Sipalay:

If the above route sounds too much of an effort, and the view of rice paddies is not inspiring enough, you can go via the port in Sipalay for a much easier, albeit less scenic, route.

Instead of getting of at Montilla, get off at Sipalay city and head to Driftwood Village Restaurant. The resort has their own outrigger boat which you can rent to get to Sugar Beach. This has to be pre-arranged though. Other resorts also have their own boats and you can contact them to arrange for a pick up at Sipalay.

The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).


Saturday, November 2, 2013

Visayas Traverse: Guimaras Island

Day2: Guimaras Island

Date of Travel: 14 October 2013

All geared up!
For a different kind of Guimaras experience, we decided to do a mountain bike tour. We would be visiting a lot of other beaches so I'm not really keen on seeing Guimaras ones plus, I heard that Guimaras is a great destination for mountain biking. We actually have no experience in the sport and were very unfit on the day but, oh well.
Road lined with endless Mango trees
Oro Verde owns the largest mango plantation in the island. This road was in front of their main gate. Because it wasn't mango season, we didn't see a lot of mangoes but the ones we had in the island were still top quality.
According to our guide, only Guimaras mangoes are allowed for export. And those from other places are consumed and traded locally.
A wild caterpillar appears!
While resting after a "challenging" bike trail, I saw a big caterpillar hanging just beside us. It was as green as grass and as large as a swollen finger. That was one of the few times I actually saw a wildlife along the trail.
Sadsad Falls
After powering through 10kms of uphill and downhill biking, our guide led us to a final trail to Sadsad falls. It was steep so we only rode our bikes half of the way and trekked the other half. The trail reminded me of Tarak and Maculot and I was happily hopping through the stones and steps.

The falls itself was worth the long trip. We took a refreshing dip in the pool and sat beneath the falls for a free water massage. I am usually afraid to swim in natural pools because I am afraid of what's underneath and of not being able to float. But I guess I was able to lighten up after the first swim.

How We Did It

I contacted the Guimaras Tourism Office to ask for someone who offers mountain bike tours. They only had one contact, Sir Tommy Martir. I gave him a call and we settled on an arrangement. A few days before our trip, I contacted him again to confirm our deal. He agreed to meet us at the Hoskyn Port and also offered food and accommodations.

Guimaras Tourism Office: PHONE (033) 581 2021
Tommy Martir: GLOBE 0927 553 7575
Bike Rental: P500
Guide Fee: P500
Room: P500
Food: P100

Promotion 

Mr. Martir is a passionate bicycle enthusiast. He has been featured in various articles and write-ups including Lonely Planet. He is an excellent tour guide who definitely knows what he's doing. He knows how to keep his guests entertained and how to make the best out of their visit.

As he is now becoming more renowned as a biking tour guide, he is looking for fellow bicycle enthusiasts who are as passionate as him to help in his business. Benefits include meeting and hanging out with male and female tourists from all over the world, travelling with pay, and living out your passion.

Bonus Story

We were in Guimaras when the recent Bohol earthquake happened. I was packing up my things while he was brushing his teeth when I felt the ground moving. I stayed still to make sure what it was and then rushed to his side and held his hand just because. We stood still and waited around 5 seconds until the movements stopped.

That was the first among many of our earthquake encounters in Visayas. It wasn't that strong and it didn't feel frightening. My brain said I should be scared because an earthquake is supposed to be dangerous but I didn't feel any imminent danger at all. It was amusing, actually -- an extraordinary experience.



The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).


Visayas Traverse: Iloilo City

Day1: Iloilo City

Date of Travel: 13 October 2013

Super Special Batchoy from Ted's Old Timer
 We started our trip with a batchoy feast by heading to the La Paz Public Market. I was looking to sample three brands but we didn't find Netong's so we just had Ted's and Deco's. Both offered slightly different tastes -- Ted's with better prepared noodles and Deco's with a more flavorful soup. The toppings differ whether you choose "special", "super special", or "extra super".
A "KEEP LEFT" sign at the Iloilo Coliseum
 In Jaro, we headed to the Iloilo Coliseum to try to watch a live cockfight. Unfortunately, tickets were at P400/person -- a hefty price for something we're not fond of. We did get to watch local blade-less cockfight in Guimaras the next day though.
St. Anne Parish in Molo District
 After dropping our bags at Lola Corazon Pension House, we headed to Molo to see the feminist church and get some Pancit Molo.
Sunset from Fort San Pedro
An hour before sunset, we rode the wrong jeep and found ourselves heading back to the Town Proper. We were supposed to go to Baybay before dark for some talaba but rerouted instead to Fort San Pedro for the sunset. A lot of locals were hanging out by the area and the orange sky coupled with the crashing of the waves was really pretty.

Where we Stayed

Lola Corazon Pension House

This is the best value accommodation I have experienced so far. For P550 we got a spacious room with a spacious bathroom, cable TV, AC, closet, tables, and chairs. The pension house also has a spacious receiving and dining area. The only cons I can think of (which are not much of a big deal) are the 11pm curfew and the location -- only one multicab route passes by the area which is a short walking distance from General Luna St.
SMART 0999 880 1229
PHONE (033) 300 6466

How We Did It

Iloilo Airport to La Paz Public Market:

From the Iloilo International Airport, we rode a shuttle to SM City Iloilo (P50). We followed the crowd to the main public entrance of the mall where we took a multicab to Iloilo Town Proper. Almost all routes go through the town proper but just ask to be sure. At the town proper, we transferred to a La Paz multicab and enjoyed the ride until we got to the La Paz Public Market. The market is very easy to spot.

La Paz Public Market to Jaro Cathedral:

From outside the market, we hailed a multicab to Jaro. There are a lot of multicabs passing by so be careful.

Jaro Cathedral to Iloilo Coliseum:

The road encircling the Graciano Lopez Jaena Park is a one-way road so we were not sure which one is headed back to the town proper and which one isn't. We tried asking but people kept giving us different directions. We've been crossing the park a number of times already so we just decided to walk a few blocks until the end of the one-way road. We went to the direction of Biscocho House, which can be seen from the park, and walked a few meters until we could get on a Jaro-CPU multicab to the Iloilo Coliseum.

Iloilo Coliseum to Calle Real:

We hailed a multicab outside the Iloilo Coliseum and got off when we saw the SOCORRO bldg on our right. This is Calle Real. You can also choose to wait for Roberto's Siopao on the right side of the road before getting off.

Iloilo Town Proper to Fort San Pedro:

Ride a Jaro-CPU multicab. Get off when you see a clear view of the sunset.

Iloilo Town Proper to Breakthrough:

At the Iloilo Town Proper, look for the multicabs that go to Arevalo(P10). They have a terminal near one of the department stores. Just ask around. You might pass by Merci which sells just-cooked Piaya along the streets.

Iloilo Town Proper to Port(Parola):

Get on a Jaro-CPU multicab until you see the outrigger boats loading passengers along Muelle Loney St. If there is not a lot of passengers, the multicab might drop you off just after Fort San Pedro. Don't be annoyed or discouraged and enjoy the short walk. You'll pass by the Port Terminal of the big Superferry ships and the terminal for multicabs.


The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).


Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Visayas Traverse: Itinerary



Above is the original itinerary map that we will follow. This post will be about the places that we will visit and the activities that we intend to do there.


Iloilo City: Food Trip

Since Iloilo City is the birthplace of a lot of Filipino comfort food, this day is solely going to be about food.

We will begin our day with a "battle of La Paz Batchoy" for breakfast at the La Paz Public Market where we will be hopping from one Batchoy stall to another. Target Batchoy stalls are Ted's Old Timer, Deco's Original, and Netong's. Afterwards, we will head to Jaro district to munch on biscocho while looking at century-old ancestral houses. Come lunch time, we will head to Molo district to hunt for Chicken Molo Soup, or maybe another batchoy. For merienda, we will head downtown along Calle Real in search of Roberto's Queen Siopao before heading to Fort San Pedro for a sunset watch and a quick break from eating. Lastly, we will go to Oton district, near the sea, for some much-craved Talaba (Oysters) in preparation for the night.

Guimaras Island: Mountain Bike Tour

Guimaras is a mere 15-minute boat ride from Iloilo. Because it is so near, locals don't see it as a separate island but as a normal commute destination. There are a lot who reside in Guimaras and go to Iloilo everyday for school or work. I think that's similar to commuting to Makati everyday, except easier and less a hassle.

Although Guimaras is most famous for its world-class mangoes and virgin beaches, I also read that it is a mountain biker's haven for its scenic roads, hilly slopes, and lush routes . And since October isn't exactly Mango season and I know there are better beaches in Cebu or Bohol, and because I am a non-biker and a scaredy-cat, I decided that we have a biking tour instead of the usual tricycle tour and/or boat tour. The last statement may not make sense but I like challenging myself, as well as believing that I can actually conquer these challenges. I'm sure this one's going to be emotionally exciting and physically demanding. Stocking up on comfort food in Iloilo actually has a purpose.

Sipalay Beach: Sunset Beach

Sipalay is a small seaside town at the south-western tip of Negros Island. There really isn't much going on in this town and very few people know about it. However, those who do and who bother to cross rice paddies and a raging river are said to be rewarded with glorious and spectacular sunsets every dusk.

The sunset from Sugar Beach is that first-prize reward. I'm not a fan of sunsets and I can't see how it's romantic (yet) but I intend to explore that idea during this trip. Moreover, I am on a quest for the perfect, off-the-beaten-path, sunset beach and from what I heard, Sugar Beach should be a potential candidate.

Dumaguete City: Discover Scuba Diving

Dumaguete, where the famed Siliman University resides, is a University town teeming with laid-back college students, cheap student meals, and wide-ranging hang-out spots. Aside from this, it is also a good jump-off point for more adventurous trips either up in the mountain or down in the sea.

That being said, we didn't really have plans of trying out scuba diving here until I saw the diving rates from our hostel. It was P3,800 for 3 dives including all equipment and transportation and although this is way above our daily budget, I couldn't find any better package. Plus, it would include a dive at one of the most beautiful reefs in the Philippines. I rationalized that we could off-set the expense to other days instead of missing the opportunity.

Siquijor Island: Jumps and Fireflies

Siquijor is the infamous Philippine capital of witchcraft and mysticism. Every time I hear about it, there is always a Philippine mythical creature/monster attached such as an aswang or a kapre that I sometimes think the place is mythical itself. Although there is some truth to this -- there really is a gathering of witch doctors and healers deep in the province -- the strong proliferation of such stories also made the island a secret paradise for skeptics and nature lovers.

For starters, the island is encircled by virgin white sand beaches (a becoming standard for Philippine islands). Further inward are lush forests and waterfalls deep enough to jump in. And at night, it lights up with fireflies that would have been chased away by tourists and commercialization.

Bais City: Dolphin Watch

Bais City, located a little bit north of Dumaguete City, has been starting to gain popularity as a destination for dolphin and whale watching. It lies along Tanon Strait which is the natural migration path of whales and dolphins.

Because chartering a boat for just the two of us is both expensive and unexciting, we will make the detour to Bais City hoping we could hitch a ride with a bigger tour group for a dolphin and whale watching tour. If unlucky, we'll just have to try and spot one from the wharf or be content with mangroves and birds.

Moalboal Beach: Beach Party

According to Lonely Planet, when people say "Moalboal", they are actually referring to Panagsama Beach at the edge of Moalboal Municipality. Although its beach has been long gone and blown away by a typhoon, it remains a popular diving jump-off and beach destination, maybe because one can drink before/after a dip.

Because Panagsama Beach isn't exactly beach-bumming material (but it's sister White Beach is), we would go for the beach party scene and take a slight break from being an stingy and actually pay for something we don't need.

Carcar City: Lechon Lunch

The first time we went to Cebu, we were unprepared and ended up with two cold lechon meals, one at a random carinderia and one at an SM Foodcourt. Although these were still far better than a Manila one, it wasn't the lechon experience Adventurebuddy was expecting. It wasn't the Cebu Lechon Legend he heard about and it felt disatsifying.

So this time, I made preparations and did my research. I especially fixed our IT so that we could have lechon lunch at Carcar, where lechon was supposedly invented(?) and where they use a special lechon sauce that would put Mang Tomas to shame.

Malapascua Island: Island Walking Tour

Malapascua Island, located at the northern tip of Cebu Island, is a 4-hour bus ride from the capital. It is usually compared to its neighbor Bantayan Island for its diving spots and pristine beaches.

According to Lonely Planet, the island is small enough to be toured on foot in 3 hours. So aside from beach bumming, we plan to do just that. Public transportation is also not big so a walking tour instead of a tricycle tour might be more worth it.

Kalanggaman Island: Beach Camping

I once read about Kalanggaman Island in PinoyBoyJournals. He described what a struggle it was to get to the island and how all that was totally worth the serenity and solidarity. His pictures and tale simply amazed me and I bookmarked his page even though I had no idea what part of the Philippines he was talking about.

Planning our Visayas Itinerary, I kept reading about a nearby Kalanggaman Island that could be a side trip from Malapascua. I repeatedly ignored this information thinking that a side trip is out of our budget until I realized that THAT was the Kalanggaman Island I was amazed about. Unfortunately, when I revisited his blog, it was temporarily down, no one else retold the story of Kalanggaman Island like he did.

Anyway, Kalanggaman Island is just an island in between the islands of Cebu and Leyte. It has no accommodations nor electricity to offer but instead promises a powdery white-sand beach, two sandbars, perfect sunset and sunrise views, and most of all, an escape to life. We will return to basics and set-up camp beneath the palm trees while watching the waves and the sun go by.

Tacloban City: San Juanico Bridge


Before this trip, the only thing I knew about Leyte was the San Juanico Bridge. I didn't even know that Tacloban was its capital. And although I now know a little bit more, I decided to leave this one trip to adventure. I researched just about the bridge and will figure out the rest when we get there. Besides, we might have a local tour us around.

Bohol: Touristy Chocolate Hills and Panglao Island


I've been to Bohol before and although I'm absolutely game to do another adventure with the island's transportation, we figured it would be better to spend our last few days for an actual vacation. I didn't do much planning here either because our destinations are quite customary. We can easily rub elbows with other visitors at the Chocolate Hills and at Panglao Island.

Woooh! I can't wait to update my Lakbayan Map below after this trip.
4 days to go as of this writing!

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Visayas Traverse: Overview

screenshot from Google Maps

Mission: Travel from West Visayas to East Visayas in a span of 2 weeks with a P1,000/day budget.


Date of Travel: 13-26 October 2013
Limitations: Backpacking style of travel (no private tours, no fancy hotels, only public transportation, only hand-carried luggage)


This October, Adventurebuddy and I are going on our most epic trip yet - a 2-week Visayas Traverse!. This trip marks a lot of firsts for both of us.

For starters, this is our first long-term travel (i.e. more than one weekend). It was originally just a weekend Iloilo trip but because I unexpectedly got out of regular employment, we decided to max out his semestral break and do a traverse to several destinations. Leyte and Samar wasn't on our original list but going all the way there seemed to be more convenient.

Second, this is the first time we are going to set a travel budget. Because the plan is to be out for at least 14 consecutive days, I figured we also needed to plan for the total cost of the trip. I set the budget at P1,000 per day per person which meant we had to be comfortable with the most basic accommodations to give way to food, transportation and activities. Surprisingly, I found rooms worth P400 for two persons with a double bed and fan. Whether these are decent enough, we have yet to find out.

Lastly, most of the places we're going to and the activities we're planning to do are definite firsts. Some examples would be Scuba Diving, looking out for dolphins, and knowing about Leyte and Samar. Basically every day of the trip is a first.

Here are the highlights of our trip for a better idea. I'm sure I'm going to conquer a lot of fears on this trip.

Travel Highlights:
- Food trip @ Iloilo City
- Mountain Bike Tour @ Guimaras Island
- Beach Sunset @ Sipalay
- Discover Scuba Diving @ Dumaguete City
- Firefly Watch @ Siquijor
- Dolphin Watch @ Bais City
- Beach Party @ Moalboal
- Lechon Lunch @ Carcar
- Island Walk Tour @ Malapascua
- Beach Camp @ Calanggaman Island
- San Juanico Bridge @ Tacloban City
- Chocolate Hills @ Carmen
- Beach Bumming @ Panglao Island

This is going to be my first post about this 2-week trip. Aside from being really excited for the trip, I also want to immortalize my thoughts and my experience.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Raintree Teapresso Blends: Not just tea

Address: 141 Katipunan Ave., St. Ignatius Village, Quezon City

I would always pass by this place and I would always gaze at how nice the shop looks like. It was never crowded which made me more curious as to who their customers might be.

Side story*: (this is something personal that I just want to write here but if you're not interested, you can skip ahead to the actual review)

The first time I actually tried to visit the shop, it was unusually crowded. Customers filled the tables up to the outside tables. I was with my boyfriend and we have just parked the car when I suddenly demanded to back-away immediately. I spotted my ex-boyfriend with his group of friends at one of the outdoor tables two steps from our parking slot. We were still friends but I hated the idea of seeing him laughing his heart out with his group. Not that I have anything against him or his friends, I just don't like seeing them all together.

As we were backing out of the tight parking slot we were previously eager to slip into, I tried to duck my head and cover my face, afraid they would see me escaping their presence. Having them see us leave without even going into the shop would only make the situation more awkward. And thankfully they didn't because they were too pre-occupied chilling out.

Actual Review: (this is the part you want to read)

Before visiting the place, I was confused at what they really sell. I have no idea what a "Teapresso" was (Could it have been Tea + Espresso? But that's too much caffeine!) and I didn't think it looked like a Milk Tea place. It turned out that the place was a fusion of a coffee shop and a milk tea shop.

The core product of the shop are tea-based drinks which the shop claims are always freshly brewed. Jars of dried tea leaves alongside other tea paraphernalia are displayed on one side of the shop while a big exquisite espresso machine sits behind a counter in front. Different seating options are available according to one's mood and need. Serious workers can opt for the counter with numerous electric outlets while chilling friends can go for one of the red sofas. The shop is designed to resemble the cozy and laid-back ambiance of a coffee shop and is made more approachable with the friendliness and childishness of milk tea.

As for their product, I wasn't really in to their teapresso blends. I prefer my milk tea light and simple and theirs was more sophisticated and flavorful. I didn't know espresso machines can be used to extract tea since tea leaves are much less dense than ground coffee beans and might produce either a too bitter or a too bland shot. But that's just me and I really don't know anything about tea.

If you don't enjoy tea, then there's still more for you in this shop. What I come back here for are their French Macaroons. They're the best and they have the widest selection of flavors I've seen. I've tasted 5 out of the 18 here and although a few really stood out, all of them were really good. The macaroons were soft and chewy but still firm enough to not crumble with every bite. The varied colors are fun to look at too. I think the ESPRESSO one had real ground coffee in it which adds texture but not bitterness. For starters, you can never go wrong with NUTELLA. And STRAWBERRY is a good intro too.
And if you end up loving their French Macaroons enough to want it everyday, why not take home three more or a dozen, even. They have a confectionery dedicated to their macaroons right beside the main shop. Its for macaroon lovers who don't want to be disturbed by non-macaroon customers.

Aside from their lovable macaroons, they also have other pastries that are equally lovable. I've tried their Red Velvet Cheesecake and it definitely stands out from all other cheesecakes that I've had. For one, it has a different texture. I think it's softer and creamier than a regular cheesecake. It doesn't have the crunchy rigid crust that I usually love but it's okay 'cause I don't think that would work on this one anyway. The cream cheese frosting is also divine. It doesn't feel like cream either but its pronounced taste and perfect level of sourness perfectly matches the red velvet cheesecake below it. With this unusual combination of texture and flavor, you wouldn't actually remember you're eating a cheesecake, just some cake of awesomeness.
I just had one complain about this piece though, it wasn't cold enough! The display freezer doors were left open for some reason. The staff might have been putting something in it or I don't know. Either way, it decreased the level of awesome-cheesecake by one level.

All in all, I think Raintree is a nice place to hang out at whatever time of the day. On mornings, you can get your daily perk with the teapresso blends. At lunch, have some cake for dessert. Or a macaroon as a snack before finally calling it a day. Nearby residents usually come by to pick up their teapresso blends or to spend some quality time with a different vibe.

How to get there:
There are no public utility vehicles that pass by the place but I guess you can get off at the Katipunan-Santolan intersection and walk back to White Plains. Its just a 5-minute walk.


Thursday, September 5, 2013

What to do when you get a REGISTRY NOTICE from the Post Office (Philippines)

If you just received a registry notice such as the one below, then this post should help you know what to do.
Registry Notice from the Philippine Postal Corporation
As you already know, that little piece of paper is one hell of a vague object. You know it might refer to something important but it just doesn't give any clues as to what it is or what to do about it. Yes, it's got your name and your address and a "Claim at Window" but, where is that window? and why didn't they just deliver that thing to your address? They certainly know where you live! And the PhilPost website doesn't help either. It's "temporarily" down.

A few days ago, I received one just like that (though I should mention that this picture belongs to Cheftonio) and I was utterly confused. I tried to make sense of that little piece of paper but there's just nothing on it that I could understand. And so, I turned to Google, and after a few websites here is what I found out:

1. International packages are delivered to the Philippine Post Office and not to your address so these can be checked by the Philippine Customs.

Some items such as firearms and narcotics are prohibited entry to our country. In order to do this, Customs checks all incoming international deliveries. This is fine and rightly so but I've already received two shipments from Amazon.com that landed directly to my address. These were books and the package I personally picked up was a cosmetics kit so I don't know if they check by sender or by the look of the package. Are they allowed to actually open it?

2. They hold the package in the Post Office of the city indicated in the address, the main branch that is.

Because I indicated Quezon City, I had to get my package in the Philippine Central Post Office. And because Quezon City is such a large city, getting to their office posed another challenge.

As much as I wanted to just go to the branch 15 mins away from me, I didn't want to risk the hassle and disappointment. So I made sure which branch I should really go to. Thankfully, I got a number in one of the non-government websites and the lady who answered kindly referred me to the Central Post Office (for parcels). In case you need to call them, here is the number:

(02) 928-6443
Philippine Central Post Office
Mon-Fri 9am to 5pm

3. At the Post Office, they will take your Registry Notice so take a picture of it while you still can.

This is the reason I don't have a picture of my Registry Notice. The lady at the counter didn't give it back. Damn!

Anyway, if your address is in Quezon City, you should go to Window 37, the Parcel Section. This is at the left-most part of the Central Post Office in Quezon City. There, they will ask for your Registry Notice, a valid I.D. (a list can be found at the back of the Registry Notice) and a P50 Postal Fee. I don't know what the Postal Fee is for when I already spent time and money to pick up the parcel that they won't post to me.


It's a really simple process made difficult by the lack of information on that little piece of paper. If it was informative enough, I wouldn't be writing this post. I hope someone in authority realizes this.

Anyhow, I hope I helped you, reader, in some way.

Cheers!




Wednesday, September 4, 2013

What to do in Marikina

Date of Travel: 31 August 2013


I basically spend half of my weeks in Marikina and although I rarely go around, I have been to a lot of places that even real residents have never heard of. I've been wanting to make a food map about it but until then, I'll just write it all down here.

1. Interact with science for less at the Philippine Science Centrum.

This place is the "original Mind Museum", as I want to call it. It has similar exhibits as its BGC version but located in a smaller and simple space. As all museums, it is great for school field trips although adults could also definitely enjoy themselves here.

Location: E-com Bldg., Riverbanks Center
Admission Fee*:  Adult                               P120
                          Student
                                Private School           P120
                                Public School            P95
                          Children below 2y/o        FREE
                          Teacher with ID              FREE
                          Senior Citizen with ID     50% off on regular
Exhibit Hours: Mon - Sat 8am to 5pm
* Maximum of 1.5 hours per visit. Additional P60 for every hour thereafter. Reservation is required for group of 30 persons or more.
Check out their solar system mock-up

2. Visit the World's Largest Pair of Shoes*

Being the shoe capital of a country where anything is made super-sized just for heck of it, Marikina houses the world's largest pair of shoes, size 753 to be exact. I don't know how many feet could fit into that thing but it's amazing that the pair is still and intact and well-maintained (it was made in 2002).
Unfortunately, its record has recently been snatched by Hong Kong 
"There was an old woman who lived in a shoe"
This must be that shoe
Location: Riverbanks Mall
Admission Fee: Free
Exhibit Hours: Mall hours
* Unfortunately, as of 12 April 2013, the record was transferred to Hong Kong for making a 6.40m shoe, according to http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records-1000/largest-shoe/.

3. Pass time at the Marikina Riverbanks

Although the Marikina River is known to overflow at least once every year, its banks is still one of the best places in Marikina to hang out and see some greens. On one side of the riverbanks  is a big amphitheater where people either sit on the grass or at the steps.
The amphitheater

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

What to do in Bacolod

Date of Travel: 23-24 February 2013


For me, Bacolod is one of those hidden gems that you need to spend more time with for you to appreciate. It is an underrated destination that better appeals to the more adventurous type for lack of the usual and established tourist spots. I've only been here once and it was one of my most appreciated trips (great food, few tourists, no traffic, lots of space, everything cheap). I don't know much about Bacolod yet but I'll update this entry as I discover more about this laidback city.

PS: This post would include nearby areas such as Talisay City and Silay City.

1. Get drunk on Chicken Inasal at Manukan Country.

Located in front of SM Bacolod, Manukan Country looks like a wet market ("palengke") for Chicken Inasal. Eateries sit side by side, occupying a long strip of open air stalls with varying decorations and customer traffic. Because all of them basically sell the same thing and a first-timer won't know the taste difference, you may base your preferences on the number of electric fans blowing inside or the amount of noise created by the customers. Once you've chosen an eatery and claimed a table, you may opt to eat with your hands not only to achieve the real experience of eating an Chicken Inasal but also because it's easier. Don't worry, sinks are usually available.

Budget: P100 per stick
How to get there: Ride a jeep to SM (P7) and get off just before you get there. You can stroll to SM after to burn out the Inasal).
Note: "Inasal" is actually synonymous to "barbeque".

2. Learn about the Sugar Capital at the Negros Museum.

Aside from portraits of past Governors and accounts of the Sugar Industry, the museum also houses non-Negros related collections such as Japanese dolls and artifacts and architectural displays. It also has an old train car at the back which was used to transport sugar cane harvests.

Budget: P60
How to get there: Ride a jeep to the Bacolod North Terminal and get off by the Provincial Hall. The museum is at the street behind it. If you don't mind walking, you can take a leisure walk from SM/Manukan Country.

3. Have a gourmet snack at the Negros Museum Cafe.

This little posh cafe is right beside the Negros Museum. There was no one when we visited and it looked like they were arranging an area for an event. The Cafe served gourmet pieces at close-to-Manila prices. Being the budget travellers that we are, we just took a quick look and left.

Budget: P150+
How to get there: From the museum exit, walk to your right and you'll quickly spot the cafe.

4. Pass time at the Provincial Capitol Lagoon.

If you want to see the locals in action, then you definitely have to be where the locals are. This park/lagoon which is just in front of the Provincial Capitol building is home to skateboarders and high school students. Some bring their picnic baskets, some their skateboards while some practice their dance routines or just watch other people do their thing. The place is grassy and benches are present.

5. Visit The Ruins.

Located in Talisay City, this destination is probably the most (or only) touristy destination around the city. Well-versed and well-practiced tour guides gleefully recite the history of the mansion to awed and amused guests. There were 3-5 guides around who take turns entertaining visitors and who say exactly the same things, including jokes. The area around the mansion is well-developed and well-maintained. It sits inside a manicured garden beside a small cafe-slash-souvenir shop. For added entertainment, you can play mini-golf at the back.

Budget: P60
How to get there: From the Bacolod North Terminal, walk back south to the Pepsi bottling plant, just under the fly-over. It's a short walk but be careful because it's at the side of the hi-way. In front of the bottling plant is a tricylce terminal. Ask for one that goes to The Ruins (P40). The site is inside several subdivisions so you might share the ride with a resident.
Note: They say that it's best to visit the mansion at sunset when the structure turns golden from the reflection of the sun.

6. Visit the Art District and have some more Chicken Inasal (or maybe a taste of art).

The Art District is where night life meets art. It is a developing area populated by restaurants (local and modern), bars, and art exhibits. If you want a more established and commercial Chicken Inasal taste, there's a Chicken House branch here you can go to. Otherwise, look for an artsy place and actually let the place live up to its name.
Budget: P100 (Chicken House)
How to get there: The site is just along Lacson St. so you can basically ride any jeep from the North Terminal. The closest district though would be Mandalagan. Watch out for Shell and Convergys when you get off.

7. Eat Dessert at Calea.

Calea is very popular in Bacolod and it already has several branches. The one we went to was the smaller one along Lacson St. It was inside a building, beside a hotel, and it is the one I recommend you to visit. There's a surprise to that place ;). 
Budget: P150+
How to get there: It's along Lacson St. and you can easily spot it from any jeep.

8. Get into a spa and a sauna for less at Bacolod Spa.

It was a long day and I wanted a massage so we went to Bacolod Spa which was the nearest to our hotel. It was housed in a boutique, well-designed hotel but it was unbelievably cheap. For P350, I get to steam off in a small sauna, take a hotel-level shower, and get a full-service massage. Although the massage wasn't great and it was done in a big room with 5 other beds (all women I assume), the price was more than worth it. I was just happy I got to take a hot shower and have oil spread all over my body.

Budget: P350
How to get there: The spa is along Lacson St.

9. Eat the freshest of oysters in Barangay. Balaring, Silay City.

We recognize the scarcity and pretentiousness of "oysters" in the Metro and so we were very excited to find fresh ones in the province. We weren't disappointed and what we experienced was even better.
We finished two buckets of oysters, one order of shrimp and one cup of rice each in a bahay kubo
on stilts. The oysters were the freshest I've tasted and the most authentic I've seen. Before this, all I know were buttered oysters that tasted nothing more than toasted butter.

Aside from the fresh seafood, you can also get a taste of wildlife.
Behind us is a lagoon where a number of birds were hunting. They repeatedly swooped down the water, trying to scoop up some fish. Nearby, you can see crabs coming out of their holes or walking along the bank. Add to that the fresh sea wind blowing our faces and filling us to another level.


Budget: Didn't take note. It was cheap and it was worth it.
How to get there: From Bacolod City, take a jeep to the Bacolod North Terminal (P7), transfer to a Ceres bus going to Silay (P15) and get off at the town proper. Look for a tricycle driver who could take you to Brgy. Balaring (P60/ride). To go back, walk along the road until you spot a tricycle (P10 shared) going to the town proper (I don't think they have a terminal here so locals usually walk until a tricycle passes by).
Note: Ask your driver to take you to Edgewater Restaurant at the far-end of the Barangay.

10. Get coffee at the local "Starbucks".

Kapehan sang Silay, as the worn-out sign still desperately indicates, is a very popular place among the locals who usually pops in for a few minutes for a hot cup of native Kape. The coffee (may be heard as 'ne-tib') is a curious mix of black coffee, sugar, and evaporated milk. The taste of the coffee was super strong so sugar and milk was inevitable and fortunately, since we were in sugar country, it wasn't weird to dump in a ton of sugar to our cup. Aside from the "netib" coffee, we also ordered Butong, a rice cake paired with brown sugar.

Budget: P30 would go a long way
How to get there: From the airport, ask to get off at Silay City and walk a block to your right to the Church. From Bacolod City,  take a jeep to the Bacolod North Terminal (P7), transfer to a Ceres bus going to Silay (P15) and get off in front of the Church. The site is across the Church.

Note: Don't expect too much from the place aside from culture and simplicity. If you're on an early flight, you can go here to get you're caffeine fix.

11. Eat meryenda and buy pasalubong at El Ideal Bakery.

Just across the Kapehan is El Ideal Bakery, a popular pasalubong stop for locals and residents alike. It sells the most wonderful meringue I have ever tasted and some other pastries that are to die for. They have a wide variety of baked goods and packaged pasalubongs for you to try.

12. Eat Piaya right off the grill.

On mornings, in Silay, one restaurant sells and cooks ube piaya just along the street. I've only seen piaya as a packaged pasalubong and I never knew it could be eaten like this.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Stop Thinking About What Other People Think

Everything is relative.. We should start seeing things as they matter to ourselves and stop seeing things as how it appears to the rest of the world.