Visayas Traverse: Sugar Beach, Sipalay

Day3: Sugar Beach, Sipalay

Date of Travel: 15 October 2013

People using woodeng planks and boulders to get to the boat

From Guimaras, we headed straight to Negros Occidental via the Cabano-Bago route. When the boat arrived, the water was low and the existing docking bridge wasn't usable. The boatmen tried to improvise by laying down wooden planks across boulders and by using themselves as human hand rails so that the passengers won't get wet. It was getting late so the people ended up crossing the water to the boat without a proper system yet. And even thought the task was quite challenging -- waves rolling under your feet, no proper footing for balance, hand-carried luggage -- I didn't see anyone fall into the water. Some didn't even get their feet wet.

A view of endless rice paddies on the way

Going to Sugar Beach, we took the Montilla route and rode a tricycle from the high way to the small river. The road went through rice paddies backed up by small mountains and over a river lined with Mangroves. It was a refreshing scenery.

Sugar beach's western orientation makes for perfect sunsets

Sugar beach directly faces West giving it unobstructed views of the sunset every day. I think this is the best sunset I've seen so far. Head to http://halfwhiteboy.blogspot.com/2012/04/sunsets-at-sugar-beach.html for better pictures.

Where We Stayed

Driftwood Village Resort

This was a long walk from the small river on the other side. I think this was the 5th resort you'll pass by and if you're really tired and hungry from a long trip (like us), you might regret making a reservation here. In which case, make a reservation in the pricier Takatuka Lodge instead, the first resort along the beach.

Anyway, true to its name, the place really looks like a village. Several nipa huts are strategically positioned throughout the property and serve different purposes. There are nipa huts for dining, for entertainment, for accommodations, for the bathroom, for the receiving area, etc. It felt like walking around in a traditional Filipino village.

What I like most about this resort are their hammocks. They have one outside every room and a few more on the beach. Their beach hammocks are not the net-type ones and so don't leave criss-cross marks on you after a good nap. We took a nap in one under the stars and the moon.

Room: P450

Inclusions: Fan room, shared bath, hammock

Tip: Bring an off! lotion to protect from the mosquitoes

How We Did It

Guimaras Island to Negros Occidental:

There are two ways to get from Guimaras to Negros. The first one, the more popular one, is via Iloilo wherein you ride the short boat-ride back to Iloilo city from Jordan and then get on a bigger boat to Bacolod City. To me, this takes more time, effort and money and so we went for the less popular one wherein we went to the other side of the island, Cabano, and got on a 45-min boat ride to Bago City (a few kilometers south of Bacolod City). Aside from this route being non-touristy, it also allowed us to see more of the island.

From the town center of Jordan, there is a shuttle van that goes to Cabano. However, waiting time and travel time is longer because they have to fill the van. Fortunately, we were able to deal with a tricycle driver to take us to Cabano for P200 (this would normally be P300-P400).

At Bago City, follow the crowd and get on one of the tricycles headed for the highway. If you're heading back to Bacolod City, cross the road. Otherwise, stay on your side of the road.

Tricycle to Cabano (1hr): P200/trip

Boat to Bago (45min): P60/person

*earliest trip at 10:00

Tricycle to Highway(20min): P20/person

Bago City to Sugar Beach:

From Bago City, wait for a Hinoba-an bus along the national highway. Tell the driver that you're getting off at Montilla, around 3kms before you arrive at Sipalay town proper. Prepare for a long and uncomfortable bus ride as a lot of people are usually headed to Sipalay.

At Montilla, get on a tricycle that will take you to the river near Sugar Beach in Bgy. Nauhang. Just tell them that you're headed to sugar beach. Our tricycle driver then was Sonny SMART 09214966158. He speaks good Tagalog and knows the area well. He was also honest enough to give me back my P100 when I was giving him P200.

At the river, get on a small paddle boat that will take you across. It is really just a small river but it's too deep to wade through or even swim through.

After the river, you will find yourself in a small village. Walk to your right and take the rightmost fork into the forest. You're basically going around a big boulder and you can exit to the beach through the leftmost fork.

Bus to Montilla (4.5hrs): P157/person

Tricycle to river (30mins): P100/trip

Boat to get across (5mins): P10-20/person

Bago City to Sugar Beach via Sipalay:

If the above route sounds too much of an effort, and the view of rice paddies is not inspiring enough, you can go via the port in Sipalay for a much easier, albeit less scenic, route.

Instead of getting of at Montilla, get off at Sipalay city and head to Driftwood Village Restaurant. The resort has their own outrigger boat which you can rent to get to Sugar Beach. This has to be pre-arranged though. Other resorts also have their own boats and you can contact them to arrange for a pick up at Sipalay.

The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).

Visayas Traverse: Guimaras Island

Day2: Guimaras Island

Date of Travel: 14 October 2013

All geared up!

For a different kind of Guimaras experience, we decided to do a mountain bike tour. We would be visiting a lot of other beaches so I'm not really keen on seeing Guimaras ones plus, I heard that Guimaras is a great destination for mountain biking. We actually have no experience in the sport and were very unfit on the day but, oh well.

Road lined with endless Mango trees

Oro Verde owns the largest mango plantation in the island. This road was in front of their main gate. Because it wasn't mango season, we didn't see a lot of mangoes but the ones we had in the island were still top quality.
According to our guide, only Guimaras mangoes are allowed for export. And those from other places are consumed and traded locally.

A wild caterpillar appears!

While resting after a "challenging" bike trail, I saw a big caterpillar hanging just beside us. It was as green as grass and as large as a swollen finger. That was one of the few times I actually saw a wildlife along the trail.

Sadsad Falls

After powering through 10kms of uphill and downhill biking, our guide led us to a final trail to Sadsad falls. It was steep so we only rode our bikes half of the way and trekked the other half. The trail reminded me of Tarak and Maculot and I was happily hopping through the stones and steps.

The falls itself was worth the long trip. We took a refreshing dip in the pool and sat beneath the falls for a free water massage. I am usually afraid to swim in natural pools because I am afraid of what's underneath and of not being able to float. But I guess I was able to lighten up after the first swim.

How We Did It

I contacted the Guimaras Tourism Office to ask for someone who offers mountain bike tours. They only had one contact, Sir Tommy Martir. I gave him a call and we settled on an arrangement. A few days before our trip, I contacted him again to confirm our deal. He agreed to meet us at the Hoskyn Port and also offered food and accommodations.

Guimaras Tourism Office: PHONE (033) 581 2021

Tommy Martir: GLOBE 0927 553 7575

Bike Rental: P500

Guide Fee: P500

Room: P500

Food: P100

Promotion 

Mr. Martir is a passionate bicycle enthusiast. He has been featured in various articles and write-ups including Lonely Planet. He is an excellent tour guide who definitely knows what he's doing. He knows how to keep his guests entertained and how to make the best out of their visit.

As he is now becoming more renowned as a biking tour guide, he is looking for fellow bicycle enthusiasts who are as passionate as him to help in his business. Benefits include meeting and hanging out with male and female tourists from all over the world, travelling with pay, and living out your passion.

Bonus Story

We were in Guimaras when the recent Bohol earthquake happened. I was packing up my things while he was brushing his teeth when I felt the ground moving. I stayed still to make sure what it was and then rushed to his side and held his hand just because. We stood still and waited around 5 seconds until the movements stopped.

That was the first among many of our earthquake encounters in Visayas. It wasn't that strong and it didn't feel frightening. My brain said I should be scared because an earthquake is supposed to be dangerous but I didn't feel any imminent danger at all. It was amusing, actually -- an extraordinary experience.

The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).

Visayas Traverse: Iloilo City

Day1: Iloilo City

Date of Travel: 13 October 2013

Super Special Batchoy from Ted's Old Timer

 We started our trip with a batchoy feast by heading to the La Paz Public Market. I was looking to sample three brands but we didn't find Netong's so we just had Ted's and Deco's. Both offered slightly different tastes -- Ted's with better prepared noodles and Deco's with a more flavorful soup. The toppings differ whether you choose "special", "super special", or "extra super".

A "KEEP LEFT" sign at the Iloilo Coliseum

 In Jaro, we headed to the Iloilo Coliseum to try to watch a live cockfight. Unfortunately, tickets were at P400/person -- a hefty price for something we're not fond of. We did get to watch local blade-less cockfight in Guimaras the next day though.

St. Anne Parish in Molo District

 After dropping our bags at Lola Corazon Pension House, we headed to Molo to see the feminist church and get some Pancit Molo.

Sunset from Fort San Pedro

An hour before sunset, we rode the wrong jeep and found ourselves heading back to the Town Proper. We were supposed to go to Baybay before dark for some talaba but rerouted instead to Fort San Pedro for the sunset. A lot of locals were hanging out by the area and the orange sky coupled with the crashing of the waves was really pretty.

Where we Stayed

Lola Corazon Pension House

This is the best value accommodation I have experienced so far. For P550 we got a spacious room with a spacious bathroom, cable TV, AC, closet, tables, and chairs. The pension house also has a spacious receiving and dining area. The only cons I can think of (which are not much of a big deal) are the 11pm curfew and the location -- only one multicab route passes by the area which is a short walking distance from General Luna St.
SMART 0999 880 1229
PHONE (033) 300 6466

How We Did It

Iloilo Airport to La Paz Public Market:

From the Iloilo International Airport, we rode a shuttle to SM City Iloilo (P50). We followed the crowd to the main public entrance of the mall where we took a multicab to Iloilo Town Proper. Almost all routes go through the town proper but just ask to be sure. At the town proper, we transferred to a La Paz multicab and enjoyed the ride until we got to the La Paz Public Market. The market is very easy to spot.

La Paz Public Market to Jaro Cathedral:

From outside the market, we hailed a multicab to Jaro. There are a lot of multicabs passing by so be careful.

Jaro Cathedral to Iloilo Coliseum:

The road encircling the Graciano Lopez Jaena Park is a one-way road so we were not sure which one is headed back to the town proper and which one isn't. We tried asking but people kept giving us different directions. We've been crossing the park a number of times already so we just decided to walk a few blocks until the end of the one-way road. We went to the direction of Biscocho House, which can be seen from the park, and walked a few meters until we could get on a Jaro-CPU multicab to the Iloilo Coliseum.

Iloilo Coliseum to Calle Real:

We hailed a multicab outside the Iloilo Coliseum and got off when we saw the SOCORRO bldg on our right. This is Calle Real. You can also choose to wait for Roberto's Siopao on the right side of the road before getting off.

Iloilo Town Proper to Fort San Pedro:

Ride a Jaro-CPU multicab. Get off when you see a clear view of the sunset.

Iloilo Town Proper to Breakthrough:

At the Iloilo Town Proper, look for the multicabs that go to Arevalo(P10). They have a terminal near one of the department stores. Just ask around. You might pass by Merci which sells just-cooked Piaya along the streets.

Iloilo Town Proper to Port(Parola):

Get on a Jaro-CPU multicab until you see the outrigger boats loading passengers along Muelle Loney St. If there is not a lot of passengers, the multicab might drop you off just after Fort San Pedro. Don't be annoyed or discouraged and enjoy the short walk. You'll pass by the Port Terminal of the big Superferry ships and the terminal for multicabs.

The Hardworking Traveller is a collection of travel guides and travel accounts that aim to help the DIY tourist with travel planning. The author is a generation-y kid struggling between her reality of needing a corporate job and her dream of becoming a hermit.

For questions, reactions and itinerary requests, please contact her here. She will also gladly customize a trip for you in exchange for coffee (or milk tea).